Deck on Lola - Cleveland Restaurant Review

Of all my work destinations, Cleveland had been one of my least favorites.  My dining experiences haven't been that great, and lately I had resorted to staying in my hotel room and just ordering room service.  That was until about a month ago.  While watching The Best Thing I Ever Ate on the Food Network, I was shocked to find out that Iron Chef Michael Symon is not only from Cleveland, but has two restaurants there.  Not to mention that some of his favorite places to eat are in Cleveland.  I jotted down some notes, telling myself that the next time I was in town, I would seek out one of the places and see if my trips to Cleveland could be salvaged.

Tonight, after my meetings wrapped up, I headed down town to start my "Michael Symon Restaurant Tour of Cleveland".  I didn't take the most direct route so it took awhile and I was getting a little frustrated, but I was trying to remain optimistic.  My plan was to go to the Greenhouse Tavern, and the menu looked fantastic, so I definitely had something to look forward to.  As I was getting closer, I realized that it was in a part of area I hadn't been to, and that it seemed like an area that could be fun.  I eventually arrived on 4th St, and parked across from the House of Blues (another new finding for me).  I got out and headed toward the Greenhouse Tavern.  That's when I noticed the sign for Lola, Michael Symon's flagship restaurant.  I figured that since I was right there, it would be silly to not eat at an Iron Chef's restaurant (I mean, I'd like to eat a meal from at least one restaurant by each of them).  I walked the extra half block to Lola and headed in.

As I approached the bar, I was greeted warmly by the bartender, and offered a dinner and drink menu.  I scanned the menu, looking at all of the delicious sounding meals.  So, I did what I've come to do lately, ask for advice.  For an appetizer she recommended the lobster or the Hawaiian crudo.  For an entree, she suggested the pasta if I wanted something vegetarian, the scallops for fish, and that they were known for their pork dishes; the shank was a little lighter, the chop a little more "robust".  So, quickly evaluating her recommendations, I selected the Hawaiian Crudo "Teriyaki" and the Smoked Berkshire Pork Chop. 

After what couldn't have been more than 5-10 minutes, the crudo arrived.  Normally I don't order fish when I come to the middle of the country (especially since I'm from Seattle), especially when it is a raw preparation, but I figured if I was going to make an exception, I would do it at Lola.  The crudo was yellowfin tuna seasoned with soy, pineapple, habanero, and cilantro.  The flavors were very nice, though surprisingly not spicy considering that it included the habanero pepper.  The best flavors were when the soy and pineapple were eaten together.  Finishing it off, I was pleased, though not overwhelmed.  I've had very good yellowfin in Seattle.  But, things were looking up compared to most of my previous Cleveland dining experiences.

Next up was the smoked pork chop, which arrived again fairly quickly.  The pork chop was served with peppers, chessy polenta and barbequed onions, and was prepared medium per the chef's recommendation.  I cut into a piece, scooped a little bit of polenta, took a bite, and was blown away.  The pork was just deliciously seasoned; not overpowering, but very nicely balanced.  But it was the smokiness that really took it to another level and provided that extra depth of flavor.  Then there was the polenta.  When I make a cheesy polenta, it could be described as a polenta with cheese.  When Michael Symon makes polenta, it could be described as cheese with polenta, and fantastic.  And that was just the first bite.  As I worked my way through I got to the peppers which were just delicious, and the barbeque onion were like nothing I'd ever tasted.  I devoured the meal, coming up for air every now and then, savoring every bite.  When I got down to the end, I didn't hesitate to pick up the bone with my fingers and get every last piece of pork.

At the end of the meal, I just sat back in my chair very happy and very content and sipped on what was left of my wine.  I was planning on simply finishing my wine and heading back to the hotel, but decided to at least take a look at the dessert menu.  As I was scanning it, four magic words jumped out at me; "Maple Bacon Ice Cream".  I couldn't help myself.  It could have said maple bacon ice cream on shoe leather, I was ordering it.  Fortunately came not on shoe leather, but with poundcake french toast and carmelized apples; known simply as the 6 a.m. Special.  Sounds delicious, right?  It tasted even better than it sounds.  The ice cream was incredible as expected, and just worked very nicely with everything else.

Needless to say, when I finally finished, and paid the bill (a respectable $70 with tip) I was very pleased.  I feel like I'd been a little overly harsh on Cleveland.  Michael Symon has single handidly renewed my interest in the food scene of Cleveland.  And even though I still think that Bobby Flay has an edge on him when it comes to overall flavors, I did walk out with a signed copy of Michael Symon's cookbook and can't wait to try some of the delicious looking and sounding dishes.

Final Verdict - 4.5 Stars